Dinner at Livelli
"After getting what seemed to be an excessive amount of sleep, nearly 7 hours, we headed to Masseria Liveli to taste their wines.
The group I’m with is exceptional, wine professionals from all across the country; many wine reps who sell the wines from this importer, but also sommeliers and wine buyers from retail establishments and restaurants. Everyone is extremely knowledgeable and wickedly funny, it’s an honor to be along with them. There is a summer camp-like vibe to the group, I’ve started calling our trip “Sommercamp” and that term seems to have stuck with my companions.
Masseria Liveli was an incredible experience. The oppressive heat of Puglia was alleviated here, as there was a strong breeze coming off of the Adriatic and Ionian Seas, the vineyards are located almost equidistant between the two, which kept this area cool and pleasant. You can smell the ocean in the breeze.
Walking through the vineyards, I was surprised to see large chunks of white limestone and ancient seashells mixed in with the reddish dirt. It reminded me of photos I’ve seen from Burgundy.
After touring the vineyard, we walked into the Masseria, an ancient Puglian word for farm, the building made from white stones, the same limestone found in the vineyard. We were escorted into a white stone room with lovely medieval style vaulted ceilings for the tasting. The wines were exceptional from start to finish, showing lovely balance between fruit and acidity. All of the wines displayed a chalky minerality, an effect of the limestone in the subsoil of this area, as well as a slight sea-breeze like salinity. They were fruit forward, as expected, but the acidity, minerality and an almost savory quality from the sea salt kept them so balanced. I was impressed.
We left Liveli, almost reluctantly, to continue our trip up the “boot.” Next for us, a five hour drive up the Adriatic Road to Abruzzo, where we will be dining at La Valentina this evening. I’m excited to see Abruzzo, a place I have read about for so long, but have never seen. Ciao a tutti!"
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