The Grapevine: Central Italy’s Cesanese Enjoys a Resurgence
By Gina Trippi
When in Rome, do as the Romans did! The varietal Cesanese is grown only in Lazio, an Italian wine region located in the central part of the country, also home to the ancient capital Rome.
The region has a long history of winemaking, dating back to when the Etruscans originally settled the territory. Evidence of Cesanese, preserved by local monasteries, dates back to the 1400s. And, today, there are only about 1,500 acres of Cesanese vineyards left around Rome.
Wines made from Cesanese tend to have intense aromas of dark cherry, followed by spicy notes of white pepper, black pepper and violet with the ability to age. Our bottle of 100 percent Cesanese, 2021 “Terra di Breccia,” comes to us from Castello di Torre, in Pietra.
The vineyards in this medieval village date back to the 16th century, when the land belonged to the family Peretti of Pope Sixtus V. And the cellar for the production and preservation of wine is documented to the 1500s. In the 1930s, the estate was acquired by Senator Luigi Albertini, who expanded the existing cellar and planted new vineyards. The winery as it appears today was renovated in 1999.
Located within the Roma wine-making region, the hills are sited in a temperate Mediterranean climate with southwest exposure highly suited to the production of wine. The rich soil, with marine sediments, sand, gravel, silt, lava and ash, is the result of the Lazio volcano dating back to the Pliocene epoch, 5.3 to 1.8 million years ago! The vineyards, situated on the hills overlooking the Roman coast, enjoy a mild, windy climate that protects the grapes from mold and disease.
The winery is officially certified organic. With respect for the land, grapes are grown without genetic modification or chemical additives including herbicides, pesticides or insecticides. Because the winery has fewer weapons to fend off vine diseases, intense attention is required in the vineyard, which naturally translates into better quality grapes.
Grapes for “Terra di Breccia” are harvested at full maturity with fermentation in steel. The wine is a garnet red color typical of Cesanese, with a beautiful luminosity. The nose is characterized by small red fruits, Morello cherries and raspberries. On the palate, the wine is fresh with well-integrated tannins, structured though the finish with fruity hints of cherries.
This ancient grape fell out of favor, but is hitting shelves again. Wine Enthusiast asked Carla Trimani, the owner of Colacicchi Winery and Trimiani il Wine Bar, why Italy has begun to focus on native varietals such as Cesanese,
“In Italy, there were eras,” Trimani is quoted as saying. “In the ‘80s, if you did not grow Cabernet, Chardonnay or Merlot you were nothing. In the ‘90s, if you did not use barrels, you were nothing. At the beginning of this century, if you did not over-mature and over-extract, you were nothing. We finished these eras. We do not need anyone to tell us what to do. We know.”
Gina Trippi is the co-owner of Metro Wines, 169 Charlotte Street in Asheville. Committed to the community, Metro Wines offers big-shop selection with small-shop service. Gina can be reached at This email address is being protected from spambots. You need JavaScript enabled to view it. or 828.575.9525.
